May 07, 2004
May 7
Amalfi Coast
After being underwhelmed in Cinque Terre, I was really looking forward to the Amalfi Coast and for the first day, the area seemed to hold some promise. Sorrento, the town we're staying in is definitely a considerably larger place than Vernazza and a refreshing change from the one tiny main street environment of the towns in Cinque Terre. It rained buckets while we slept our first night and I hoped that would be the end of the rain but as we left the next morning, I noticed it was really cloudy and decided against going to the Blue Grotto as I had originally planned, thinking that the illumination effect wouldn't be as strong. We decided to take the bus ride described by two of my three Italy guidebooks as the best cheapest bus ride experiences in the world--the local bus from Sorrento to Amalfi. It is quite an experience and the ocean here is beautiful--all shades of acquamarine. As far as the experience end of it goes, the bus runs along a narrow two-way road which winds along cliffs and sea on the Amalfi Coast. It's quite an experience not only b/c you're not more than inches away from the edge of the cliff but also b/c the road is filled with tour buses, motorcycles, and other vehicles and b/c the road is so narrow two buses passing each other means you're maybe an inch away from the other bus and the bus driver has to pratice extreme dexterity in manuevering past other buses and vehicles. Taking the bus for the first time to your destination is enjoyable but the bus ride is long (about two hrs) so our original plan had been to take the ferry back. Unfortunately, it also rained the entire bus ride so the scenery wasn't quite as beautiful as I'm sure it is under sunnier conditions.
Anyway, we arrive at Amalfi and catch another bus to Ravello which had been raved about in the guidebooks I'd read which turned out to be a disappointment. Had lunch at a highly recommended restaurant which also turned out to be a disappointment and caught a bus back to Amalfi. Upon reaching Amalfi, we inquired about the location of the ferry dock only to find out the ferries weren't running. We resign ourselves to taking the bus back and we waited in this area where we saw all these people waiting. Fifteen minutes pass and the bus doesn't come and leave as scheduled and we wait. Another fifteen minutes pass and I start to wonder what's up with the bus. We ended up walking over to where this couple is standing and it turns out to the spot where you're actually supposed to wait for the bus going back to Sorrento but they point out the bus we had missed had been packed anyway. Unfortunately, the next bus wasn't leaving for another hour and it was cold and rainy and I was pretty frustrated by this point. Finally the bus comes and it's a good thing we were the first ones waiting for it b/c it becomes packed with tourists and locals. But at least I have Capri and the Blue Grotto to look forward to the next day right?
Once again, we get an early start and today it's beautiful out. We walk down to the ferry terminal only to be informed that the ferries aren't running b/c the water's too choppy. When I have my mind set on something, I'm not easily swayed so I decide to call the ferry companies once we return to our hotel to see if they'll be running later. The company I have a # for informs me that their 2:30 ferry will be running. I'm not happy about the lateness of the time (I had really looked fwd to having lunch in Capri or Anacapri since the food in Sorrento had been really disappointing--I'm a big foodie btw) but 2:30 is better than nothing so go back down to the ferry terminal when the ticket office opens. Unfortunately, this ferry line is the only one running and the only ferry returning to Sorrento was leaving at 6:15 so I was anxious to get to Capri as early as possible. The boat leaves Sorrento half an hour late, then the workers spend another half an hour fixing something that breaks once we pull into Capri. With only two hours left and facing another boat ride to get to the grotto, I flee the ship to the nearest information office and ask where I can catch a boat to my long awaited for destination. The grotto is closed today, I'm informed. Defeated, Adam and I take another crowded bus up to Anacapri and go to a villa I'd read about up there. It's nice but not what I'd come to the Amalfi Coast for. Despite the numerous frustrations though, I am sad that we only have a few days left in Italy.
Posted by Jennifer at May 7, 2004 03:41 PM
Comments
I'm sad to hear that you didn't get to see the Blue Grotto, but not you can use that as a reason to return to Italy another time.
Hopefully it will stop rain soon. Good luck in ROME.
Arriverdeci
Posted by: Carlos at May 9, 2004 11:46 PM